Car Radio Help Center

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Leo
Thanks for the quick response and all your time with this matter!

1) For for the software update, I am still experience the radio playing softly in the background. Please see video: Login to see the link

I’ve also noticed that the option to change the vehicle speed from km to miles is now missing and I am unable to change the setting. I also updated the 3 canbus apps (canbus, service, and list).

2) I spliced the wire per your instructions and connected pin 9 to key1.
This now allows me to program the buttons in SWC which I was not able to do previously but only for the same buttons that were working before (volume, fwd/back, mode). It does not resolve the original problem with the voice, hang up, and answer buttons.
I also tried connecting to the SWC2 (key2) wire but I have the same symptoms.

I experimented with the different baud rates to see if it would resolve the issue. I am able to the use the same working buttons under 38400 baud. However, the 19200 seems to work better because it is able to sense open doors and HVAC control.

  • Leo replied to this.
    • #18

    Mazdaspeed333
    Dear Mazdaspeed333,

    We sincerely apologize that the previous solutions did not resolve your issues.

    Regarding the FM background sound issue:
    The new system upgrade we previously provided did not solve the problem. After further communication with our engineers, it seems that if the system upgrade doesn’t resolve the issue, the problem is likely with the radio chip.
    If you have time, could you please capture a system log and send it to us for further analysis of the issue? If it turns out to be a chip (hardware) problem, please feel free to contact us at our official email: [Login to see the link], and we can arrange for a replacement.

    Regarding the voice button, answer, and hang-up issues:
    First, I have asked the engineers to carefully review the protocol data video you sent, and they confirmed that the original car is not sending any voice data to the head unit.
    Additionally, I have discussed with the engineers about the situation where manually wiring the buttons did not resolve the voice issue.
    Typically, the original car’s steering wheel control buttons are connected via a signal wire (either key1 or key2), and pressing each button generates different resistance values to trigger different functions.
    If you have a multimeter, you can test it this way:

    Set the multimeter to DC 20V.
    Connect the black probe to the ground.
    Connect the red probe to key1 (if you’re currently using key2, connect the red probe to key2).
    Press the voice, answer, and hang-up buttons and check if there’s any voltage change.
    If no voltage change is detected when pressing the buttons, unfortunately, it seems the issue cannot be resolved.
    We apologize for the inconvenience and thank you again for your cooperation. Please let us know the results of the testing, and feel free to contact us if you need any further assistance!

    Best regards,
    Leo

    • #19

    Mazdaspeed333
    Additionally, could you please provide a picture of the back of your car’s original head unit? This will allow me to take the time to look up the pinout diagram for your vehicle model and confirm whether there are two steering wheel control signal wires. If so, you can connect them to key1 and key2, which should resolve the issue.

    Thank you for your cooperation, and I look forward to your reply!

    [Login to see the link]
    Here is a the back of my original deck:

    FYI, this is the original Bose deck. I currently do not have anything plugged into the right plug as I think that goes directly to the Bose amp (but I’m not 100% sure).

    I measured the voltage from key1 and key2 to ground. There was no change in voltage when any button was pressed, including the ones that are working (volume/seek/mode). It was a constant 2.8V on both wires.
    Just a reminder that the buttons worked before I spliced into key1/key2 but I was not able to program it using SWC. Just a thought, but I think it might be getting another signal somewhere else.

    As for the system log, I’m unable to locate where I can download it. Can you point me to where it can be found?

    Thanks again for all your help and effort!

    • Leo replied to this.
      • Edited
      • #21

      Mazdaspeed333
      Thank you very much for providing the photo! Please give me a moment, I will check the pinout definition of the head unit and get back to you as soon as possible.
      Additionally, I believe your assumption is correct—the voice button and the other two buttons are likely routed through a different signal group.

      Here’s how to capture the logs:

      1.Open the calculator and enter “)83781(”, then press “=”.
      2.Once in the debug interface, click on the “DEBUG&LOG” option.
      3.Click on the “YLOG” option and select “NORMAL SCENE” (it will turn blue).
      4.Reproduce the issue (e.g., When entering the radio app to play FM, then pressing the “Back” button in the top right corner, the issue is that the FM sound continues after exiting the app.).
      5.Afterward, repeat steps 1 to 3, but click on “DEBUG&LOG” again (it will turn gray).
      6.Go to the file manager, find the “YLOG” folder, copy it, and send it to us for analysis.

      • #22

      Mazdaspeed333
      Hello,

      I’ve reviewed the original car’s pinout information, and I believe I have identified the issue.

      Under normal circumstances, there should only be two steering wheel control signal wires from the original car: one is “SWC”, and the other is “SWC GND”. However, it seems that your car has additional buttons for voice, answer, and hang-up, which I believe should be routed through “SWC2”. The SWC GND should share a common ground with the original car’s head unit ground.

      The attached image is the 24-pin pinout of your original head unit.
      Please check pins “H” and “I”—these are the steering wheel control signal wires from the original car.
      The correct wiring should be as follows:

      • H corresponds to KEY1

      • I corresponds to KEY2

      Please check and connect them in this manner, then proceed with the button learning process again.

      Note:
      Currently, the wiring shows that the original “I” pin is connected to our power harness GND.
      Please cut the wire corresponding to the “I” pin (the wire from our power harness, usually black). After cutting, check if the volume up and volume down buttons are functioning correctly.
      If they are, then reconnect the “KEY2” wire to the original “I” pin and proceed with the button learning process again.

      [Login to see the link]
      Thanks for the instructions! I’ll download the logs and re-wire the connections. I will report back with the results in a few days when I have time to complete it.

      • Leo replied to this.
        • #24

        Mazdaspeed333
        Thank you for your reply! I appreciate your cooperation, and I completely understand that it may take some time to complete the process. Once you’ve downloaded the logs and re-wired the connections, please feel free to let me know the results when you have time. If you need any further assistance, don’t hesitate to reach out.

        Looking forward to hearing from you!

          6 days later

          Leo
          Hi Leo,

          I’ve had some time to try out the connections you mentioned but unfortunately, they did not work. However, I was able to figure out the correct wiring.
          For models with bluetooth, the SWC2 wire goes to the bluetooth module. The pink wire needs to be cut and connected to the key2 (SWC2) wire of the head unit. Hopefully, this info can help out anyone in the future trying to figure it out.

          As for the log capture, here’s the ylog: Login to see the link

          • Leo replied to this.

            Mazdaspeed333
            Hi Mazdaspeed333,

            Thank you for sharing the information, and I appreciate your effort in figuring out the wiring! I see that you’ve connected the SWC2 wire to the Bluetooth module, and the pink wire needs to be cut and connected to the key2 wire of the head unit. This is helpful and will surely assist others with similar setups in the future!

            Also, thank you for providing the log file. I will have a look at it and get back to you shortly if we need any further details.

            Let me know if there is anything else you need assistance with!

            Best regards,
            Leo

            Mazdaspeed333
            Hello Mazdaspeed333,

            We have reviewed the YLOG data you provided. It appears that the issue may be caused by the radio chip. Please contact us at our official email address: [Login to see the link], so we can arrange a replacement unit for you.

            We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused and wish you a wonderful day.

            Best regards,

            LEO

              7 days later

              Leo

              Hi Leo, I’ve sent an email to the address above but I have not received a response.

              Regards,

              Cliff

              • Leo replied to this.

                Mazdaspeed333
                Hello Cliff,

                I sincerely apologize for the delayed response. I will check the email and follow up as soon as possible. To expedite the resolution of your issue, could you please provide your order number?

                Thank you for your patience.

                Best regards,

                Leo